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As promised last month, I tested Marie Jaeger’s all-pork frikadeller recipe and am happy to report the results.
I passed a sampling along to two of my frequent taste testers and both preferred the all-pork version. However, I’m on the fence, as I liked them both.
Marie’s all-pork recipe is quite close to her pork/beef mix. The only exception I noted was there is no nutmeg in her pork recipe, while mixed pork and beef called for some.
Marie explained it this way, “My mother didn’t use nutmeg in frikadeller, but Johannes’ (Marie’s late husband) mother did. Sometimes,” she said, “I put it in and sometimes I left it out.”
So, I figured, it’s optional and I did include it when I tried her recipe.
A little nutmeg with savory meat dishes adds an exotic element, but you have to be careful not to overdo it. If you choose to use nutmeg, do so sparingly at first, then see how you like it and adjust the recipe accordingly.
By the way, always use fresh nutmeg, toss the pre-ground. Using fresh is essential; if you don’t have a nutmeg grinder/grater, get one. Even if you only use it a couple times a year, as with pepper, there is no substitute for fresh ground. Whole nutmegs are sold from three to five in a jar or package and keep forever in a tightly sealed container.
Mine is cone-shaped, metal and quite sharp with a hinged top in which to store a single nutmeg between gratings. It’s ancient, as I inherited it from my grandmother. Simple and efficient, it’s all the tool you need. It’s perfect for the job and I recommend it, if you can find one.
With all this recommending of fresh, I felt honor bound to check the local availability of such a device. I spent a warm spring afternoon and “shopped” the Valley. I covered all the bases, from Santa Ynez to Los Olivos, through Solvang and Buellton.
My quest wasn’t particularly fruitful. Harrison’s Hardware in Santa Ynez was the only store that had “my” grater in stock. Rasmussen’s carries them, but are currently out.
There are lots of microplanes in all the shops and they will do the job, but make sure you get a “fine” one.
I even checked out Solvang’s Spice Merchant; they sell whole nutmeg and microplanes but didn’t have the old style I like.
Online, I found graters galore. From simple to complicated, they cost anywhere from under $5 to over $50.
And they are all hand-operated. Apparently, no one has invented an electric nutmeg grinder … yet!
MARIE JAEGER’S PORK FRIKADELLER
1 pound ground pork
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 egg
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon fresh ground nutmeg, optional
3 to 4 tablespoons water
1 small slice dried white bread
1/4 scant cup chopped onions
oil for frying
Place all ingredients, except pork in blender, (not food processor) and pulse until well-blended. Add mixture to meat, mix well, form into plump patties and fry until nicely browned.
NOTE: Marie says to add water gradually and use only enough to make a paste, not a runny mixture. Texture shouldn’t be too wet.
For gravy, try the following, a recipe from the chef (early '80s) at the El Paseo Restaurant in Santa Barbara. One of the ingredients surprised me, canned gravy! But I had to admit, the finished sauce/gravy is delicious and a perfect accompaniment to frikadeller.
MUSHROOM/DILL GRAVY
1/4 pound fresh mushrooms, sliced
2 cans beef gravy
1 pint carton sour cream
1 bunch parsley, chopped fine
1 bunch fresh dill, chopped fine
Fry mushrooms in an ungreased pan until slightly browned and moisture has evaporated. Add gravy and sour cream, then mix until well combined. Stir in parsley and dill, reserving a tablespoon of each for garnish.
Arrange meatballs on a large platter, top with gravy and sprinkle with reserved parsley and dill.
Longtime Valley resident Elaine Revelle can be reached at thewoodenspoon@juno.com.
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May 05, 2021 at 11:00PM
https://syvnews.com/lifestyles/columns/wooden-spoon/elaine-revelle-spice-up-frikadellers-with-fresh-nutmeg/article_2e64b641-298f-50b2-a424-1ca7018475b7.html
Elaine Revelle: Spice up frikadellers with fresh nutmeg - Santa Ynez Valley News
https://news.google.com/search?q=fresh&hl=en-US&gl=US&ceid=US:en
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